Five Ways Winter Weather Damages Plants (and What You Can Do About It)

Winter weather can be brutal on landscapes—especially during years when deep cold arrives suddenly or lingers longer than usual. While extreme low temperatures are the most obvious threat, they’re far from the only way winter can injure trees, shrubs, and perennials.

Below are five of the most common ways winter damages plants, how to recognize the symptoms, and what you can do to prevent problems before spring.

Hydrangea with basal growth

New growth is emerging from this hydrangea in spring after winter killed all of the previous top growth. Photo by George Weigel

1) Freeze Damage (Cold Injury)

Every plant species has a genetic limit for how cold it can get before leaves, branches, buds, and roots are injured.

Plants native to very cold climates can tolerate sub-zero temperatures without their cells rupturing. Plants native to warm climates, however, can suffer damage even when nighttime temperatures drop into the 40s.

These differences are the foundation of the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map, which divides the U.S. into zones based on average winter minimum temperatures. Most plants sold in nurseries are labeled by zone.

Common symptoms of freeze damage

  • Sudden leaf drop
  • Browning or blackening foliage
  • Branch dieback
  • Cracked stems
  • Plant death (especially in borderline-hardy species)

How to reduce freeze damage

  • Stick to plants rated for your hardiness zone
  • Protect borderline plants with burlap barriers or fabric wraps
  • Use 2–3 inches of mulch to insulate roots
  • Avoid late-season fertilizing that encourages tender growth

Important: Don’t prune too soon

Freeze damage can look worse than it is. Wait until spring is well underway before pruning or removing plants—new growth often appears from stems or the base that seemed dead in winter.

Winter burned boxwoods

These boxwoods have been badly browned from winter burn. Photo by George Weigel

2) Winter Burn (Evergreen Browning)

Winter burn is most common on evergreen plants, especially broadleaf evergreens.

Even in winter, evergreens continue losing moisture through their foliage. When the ground is frozen, roots can’t replace that moisture—especially during cold, windy weather. The result is dehydrated foliage that turns brown and scorched-looking.

Plants most at risk

  • Boxwoods
  • Hollies
  • Rhododendrons
  • Other broadleaf evergreens

Needled evergreens can get winter burn too, but broadleaf evergreens are typically more vulnerable.

Symptoms of winter burn

  • Browning on leaf tips and edges
  • Bronzing or discoloration over entire plants
  • Worst damage on wind-exposed sides

How to prevent winter burn

  • Water deeply going into winter if conditions are dry
  • Water during winter thaws when the ground isn’t frozen
  • Install burlap wind barriers around vulnerable shrubs

Frost killed magnolia petals

A sudden frost following a warm spell has browned the flower petals on this magnolia tree. Photo by George Weigel

3) Frost Injury (Cold Snaps After Warm Spells)

Plants are often most cold-hardy when fully dormant in midwinter. The bigger danger comes when plants begin waking up too early.

A warm spell can “trick” plants into breaking dormancy and swelling buds—then a sudden frost kills tender new growth.

This type of winter damage is becoming more common in many regions because winter weather patterns are less predictable than they used to be.

Symptoms of frost injury

  • Dead flower buds (leading to fewer blooms)
  • Loss of fruit for the season
  • Browning on leaf edges
  • Blackened flower petals or new shoots
  • Dieback of branch tips

What gardeners can do

You can’t control the weather, but you can sometimes reduce damage:

  • Cover plants with floating row cover or frost cloth during surprise freezes
  • Avoid heavy pruning in late winter (which can encourage early growth)
  • Wait until spring to prune branch tips—you may see recovery

Cracked crabapple tree trunk

This vertical crack in a crabapple tree resulted from quick thawing following a cold night. Photo by George Weigel

4) Sunscald and Frost Cracks (Trunk Damage on Trees)

Some winter damage happens not from cold alone, but from rapid temperature swings.

Sunscald

Sunscald occurs when winter sun quickly warms tree bark during the day after a cold night. That rapid warming can kill inner bark tissue.

Sunscald is most common on thin-barked trees such as:

  • Maples
  • Cherries

It typically appears on the south or southwest side of the trunk, where sun exposure is strongest.

Frost cracks

Frost cracks happen in a similar way. When tissue warms quickly, it expands and can split vertically—sometimes with an audible snap.

Frost cracks often callus over in summer but may reopen in future winters, creating weak spots that can invite disease.

Best prevention for both

Wrap susceptible trunks in winter using:

  • Commercial plastic trunk spirals
  • Paper tree wrap
  • Burlap

Remove wraps in spring.

Shrubs sagging under snow

Winter can damage landscape plants in a variety of ways, ranging from cold temperatures to branch breakage from snow loads. Photo by George Weigel

5) Snow and Ice Damage (Breakage and Flattening)

A consistent snow cover can actually help protect plants. Snow is an excellent soil insulator and reduces repeated freezing and thawing that can heave perennial roots out of the ground.

The real threat comes from:

  • Heavy wet snow
  • Ice storms
  • Roof slides dumping snow onto shrubs

Common snow and ice damage

  • Broken tree limbs
  • Split branches
  • Shrubs flattened under snow load
  • Permanent bending or distortion

How to prevent snow and ice damage

  • Prune trees to remove narrow branch angles and weak structure
  • Wrap or tie shrubs that tend to splay open
  • Protect shrubs under rooflines with a simple plywood “hut” so snow slides off the roof of the structure instead of onto the plant

If breakage happens

  • Prune snapped branches back to the nearest intact joint
  • Don’t use tar, tree paint, or wound sealers (they don’t help and may slow healing)

Key Takeaway: Winter Damage Isn’t One Problem

Winter injury isn’t just “it got cold.” Plants can be harmed by dehydration, temperature swings, late frosts, and physical breakage—even if temperatures stay within normal winter ranges.

If you’re dealing with winter damage this year, the best approach is usually patience: wait until spring growth begins before making major pruning or removal decisions.

FAQ

What is the most common type of winter plant damage?

Freeze damage and winter burn are two of the most common winter injuries. Freeze damage affects leaves, stems, and roots from extreme cold, while winter burn is dehydration damage most often seen on evergreens.

Why do evergreen shrubs turn brown in winter?

Evergreens can turn brown from winter burn. Cold winds and sun cause moisture loss through foliage, and frozen ground prevents roots from replacing that moisture.

Should I prune plants immediately after winter damage?

Usually no. Wait until spring is established. Many plants push new growth from stems or the base even if they look dead in late winter.

What trees are most prone to sunscald?

Thin-barked trees such as maples and cherries are more prone to sunscald, especially on the south and southwest sides of trunks.

Does snow protect plants or damage them?

Both. A steady snow cover insulates soil and protects roots. But heavy snow, ice storms, and roof slides can break limbs and flatten shrubs.

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